Anyone who has had anything to do with boats has read numerous articles on anchors and anchoring techniques. Each of you has your own technique and theories that you practice and that work for you. However, several of you have asked me to include this subject.
When it comes to anchoring, I believe that bigger is better. Whatever the recommendation for your boat, consider one anchor size bigger. There have been volumes written about what is the best anchor to use in different conditions and I cannot add to this.
Indulgence has a CQR and it works well for me.
Anchors, regardless of type, work on the same principle. They must dig into the sea bottom in order to hold the weight of the boat. To enable the anchor to “dig in”, the pull on the anchor must be as level with the sea floor, or as horizontal as possible, allowing the flukes to bury themselves. The height of the bow of your boat added to the water depth exerts an upward pull on the anchor, trying to lift it off the bottom. Having the anchor or flukes level so they can dig in is the reason for having chain, or as much weight as possible as the first part of the anchor rode. The weight, resting on the sea floor keeps the flukes level, allowing them to dig in and stay in.
Thus comes the question of chain, should you or shouldn’t you, and how much? Indulgence carries 200’ of chain. I do not race our boat, so the added weight in the bow does not concern me. Some people, who use chain and then rope, will use a weight on a separate line on the anchor rode keeping the pull of the rode a flat as possible. Remember, regardless of your rode, chain or rope, the more the boat pulls on it, the straighter it will get, pulling the flukes out. For me, in keeping with the principle bigger is better, I prefer all chain, and as much as possible, as it keeps the pull level with the sea bottom, insuring that the anchor will not break loose. Another advantage of chain is that the boat will rest on the chain in slack tide and no wind conditions. It is almost impossible to foul the keel with an all chain rode.
OK! We have our anchor and chain set up, we have remembered to securely fasten the anchor, and chain and rode, the shackle pins secured with safety wire and the bitter end is secured to the boat. We enter an anchorage looking for a place to anchor. It is late afternoon, the wind is calm, the anchorage is quiet and everyone, with a drink in their hand is looking at you, waiting to judge your anchoring technique. The scorecards, from one to ten are just moments away from being on display!
One piece of equipment that I did not mention before is what Melissa and I call a marriage saver. It is a pair of two-way radios, the earphones mounted in a head piece with attached microphone. It is very easy to speak into the microphone in a normal speaking voice, while looking ahead, and Melissa at the helm can hear me. It also eliminates the need to shout helm orders to the anchorage, while the Admiral, who is at the wheel, cannot hear you because you are looking ahead as opposed to backwards.
OK! The anchor is ready to be deployed, the Captain is at the bow ready to deploy the anchor, and the Admiral is at the helm. We now need to find a hole to drop the anchor. A little planning works well here. Most use at least 7:1 for the rope to rode water depth ratio, less for chain. That means that in 10 feet of water, including the height of the bow, there will be about 70 feet of rode. I look for the biggest hole, but also seek out similar boats that will swing the same as
Indulgence.
The worst thing you can do is anchor next to a powerboat on a rope rode. Guaranteed you will have a problem. The spot for my anchor is at least one boat length behind another sailboat with a chain rode. It is acceptable, when your neighbor is looking at you (waiting to score your performance) to ask him how much scope he has let out. Ideally, you will reach your drop point (and the center of your swinging circle) when your boat has no forward motion, or is just ready to start drifting backwards. I let the anchor go, and once started, the weight pulls the chain out of the well. As the boat drifts backwards, it will pull the anchor rode out of the locker. At about two boat lengths, I start to snub the rode, this will set the anchor. (I have a short piece of chain with a hook that is attached to a U bolt in the anchor locker that I use for this.) When it is set, I will let out that rest of the scope and set the snubber.
Several Captains put the engine in reverse, giving the rode a good pull to make sure it is set. I start to clean up the boat at this time, leaving the engine running. In a breeze, if the anchor is not set properly, you will know it very quickly. I also take mental bearings on shore points. Do not bother doing this on other boats; everything will be turned around when the wind or tide shifts. I also will set an anchor alarm on the GPS.
I use the same techniques in heavy weather, except that I use more scope and do everything quicker. The biggest problem is making sure the fingers and toes do not get in the way.
You scored a 10! Your neighbors will all settle down to a good evening’s rest knowing that you can handle your boat, and, by the way, not damage theirs. Now it’s your turn to score the next arrival.