I have never read any rules on rafting.This is what I do.If anyone has a different method, please let me know and we can publish it.Preparation is the essential part of any successful maneuver:
Fenders:For me bigger and more is better.Put at least two fenders at the beamiest part of your boat.The anchored boat will also have fenders positioned on the side of the boat they want you to raft on.I also use a fender forward and one aft to prevent damage in case of a missed approach.
Lines: I think it is good manners that the rafting boat supplies the lines.You should have four lines ready: bow, stern and two spring lines.The midship cleat on Indulgence is about right for the length of spring lines that I use.You can also use spring lines running from bow and stern; these lines will be longer.The rafting boat should have the bow and stern lines secured and ready to throw to the anchored boat.Make sure that all of the lines (that you are about to throw) are secured and are clear so that they do not foul life lines, ankles, etc.
Approach:I prefer approaching the starboard side of the anchored boat, raft on my port side.When I back down the stern will walk to port, bringing the stern into the anchored boat.Timing the approach is strictly a matter of judgment.The anchored boat will be swinging in the wind, literally sailing on her anchor, presenting first the starboard bow and then the stern to the boat that is rafting.Make your approach when the stern is presented to you, so you will be alongside when the anchored boat swings her starboard bow to you.
People:I think the captain of the anchored boat is the captain of the maneuver.As the captain, you need to make sure everyone knows what they have to do.It is very easy, in a firm but not threatening voice, say, “Throw the bow line, throw the stern line, etc”. If the maneuver is going well, I do not say anything.I think you need a person at the bow and stern of the anchored boat, one person on the bow of the rafting boat, and obviously the helmsman of the rafting boat is at the stern.On approach, throw the bow line first.DO NOT PULL THIS LINE IN TOO FAST AS THIS WILL PULL THE RAFTING BOAT, ANCHOR AND PULPIT FIRST INTO THE ANCHORED BOAT!The captain of the rafting boat should immediately put his boat in reverse, walking the stern to port and then throwing the stern line.As soon as the stern walks in, put the boat in neutral.Do not turn the engine off until the boats are secure.I like to take a wrap around a cleat, taking the pressure off.I do not secure the line at this time, it will need adjusting. It is not necessary at this point to have the boats too close together, an extra foot between the boats is better, as long as the bow or stern of the rafting boat is not starting to swing.If this happens, tightening the line opposite the swing will prevent damage.
Securing the lines:Position the boats so that one mast is forward of another so the mast will not be damaged when the boats roll.I think that rafted boats should ride easy.I like to get the boats as parallel as possible.ONLY ONE OF THE FOUR LINES SECURING THE BOATS SHOULD BE TIGHT AT ANY ONE TIME!Watch the boats for a moment after they are secured.You will see that when one line gets a little taut, the others will slack.This is good.
Cocktails:At this time, hellos, hugs, kisses and cocktails are in order.Just think. We can now settle down to the entire weekend of fun in the sun!
Reader Feedback..
Warren Elliott commented that he does not care which side you raft on. He does not rely on reverse gear to walk the stern to port, but rather sufficient speed so that a sharp rudder action will drive the stern of the rafting boat into the host boat. Warren does not like fenders on both boats before the boats are secure. He comments that they will hang up or interfere with fenders on the host boat. A very good point if there is relative motion between the host and rafting boats.
Warren makes this final point which I will quote directly. “Lines: here is where I'm a [semi-?] fanatic! In addition to the normal bow-to-bow and stern-to-stern lines, the proper use of spring lines is with two of them configured as an "X", using only the mid and aft cleats. The point of this is to allow the boats to ride apart, ideally not touching, which is the most comfortable and least stressful [on man and boat]. Of course, this can only happen with at least a little favorable current or wind. Contrarily, with bow springs, it will be more difficult to keep the boats apart because of the angle of the lines, which have a greater transverse component than aft spring lines.”